Wednesday, 31 May 2017

Rhopalocera


Pretty sure I bought this scarf after witnessing the incredible Givenchy Fall 2014 show... absolutely ancient history in terms of fashion, but a collection that really stuck with me. I usually find the butterfly a bit cliche and overused as a decorative motif, but Tisci's use of it was just beautiful, most especially in this dress. The whole collection was perhaps more polished and ladylike than typical Tisci, but it retained a subversive, kinky feel; I adored the earthy, peachy colour palette, the use of extra sheer hosiery, and killer heels. Worn with a twee pinafore skirt, my (sadly-not-Givenchy) scarf is big enough to drape into a cape style, and perfectly compliments the coppery tones I wear so much of these days.  






ASOS skirt, H&M turtleneck, Dune shoes, vintage belt and jewellery, Becks√∂ndergaard scarf 




Sunday, 14 May 2017

Medieval Military



I bought this bodice a couple of years ago and despite being wool, on the few occasions I've worn it, I've opted to dress it up as evening-wear. It's from the 1970s and according to the seller came with matching high-waisted flares that attached to the bodice via the hook and eyes that line its hem (I wasn't too disappointed to hear that these were disintegrated beyond repair and disposed of by the seller). Bit of an odd choice for me; I'm not hugely fond of the 70s, the faded sage green colour isn't exactly prevalent in my wardrobe, and the structure is pretty rigid and shoulder-enhancing. But... I loved the beaded, medieval crest, and I have super narrow shoulders so welcomed the idea of a bit of balance to my hips. I'd just seen the Marc Jacobs SS15 show when I bought this, which fused femininity, sage green, military details and jet black hair to surprisingly pleasing effect, and obviously urged me to buy something slightly different for me (but not actual Marc Jacobs, sorry Marc). 




Vintage bodice and bag, Lanvin shoes, ASOS skirt, self-made belt.


The Lanvin shoes I first spotted way-back in 2009, and thanks to persistent ebaying, I managed to make them mine two or three years ago, brand new, and for a very good price. Never give up!  





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And dressed down with a white turtleneck (which oddly adds a sci-fi/jockey vibe to the already confusing mixture of medieval/military)




Sunday, 7 May 2017

Something Old, Something New


It's not often I find myself coveting modern jewellery; aside from obviously preferring the aesthetics of antique/vintage jewellery, I just feel like if I'm going to spend money on something, I'd rather buy something with history and that is somewhat exclusive (I don't think I've covered a contemporary designer since I posted about Muriel Grateau, eight years ago). Two jewellers have recently compelled me to share their work though- both come from a background in sculpture, and both create pieces that whilst modern, exude a hint of history. 

Joy Bonfield Colombara, in her 'Fragments' series, isolates and deconstructs classical sculpture, with jaw-dropping results. I cannot get over how good the rings are, exploded and presented frame-by-frame.   


From another collection, I admire the use of hallmarks in the 'London Signet' ring, taking something usually hidden and more of an afterthought and making it the main design element. In Joy's own words, the signet ring traditionally served as a "3-d signature", used in conjunction with wax to seal and sign letters. Surmounting a boxy signet ring, Joy has used hallmarks as a statement of her own identity, including the leopards head hallmark corresponding to the city of London, her initials, and the lion passant guardant and 925 hallmarks to indicate silver quality.

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✤ In a similar vein, the work of Gabriella Kiss also possesses a touch of the sculptural and antiquated; the use of anatomically correct fauna (or you know, actual stuffed dead animals) has always struck me as particularly Victorian, and the hand motif has long been used in jewellery. Her sleeping bird earrings harbour a surprise pearl within their feathered folds, exhibiting a surreal yet reserved quality, as also seen in the dripping hands earrings. 


Kiss also creates pieces which isolate facial features - a nose, or ear for example. My favourites focus on the eye, as they are reminiscent of Georgian love token miniatures, where painted eyes were mounted in rings and brooches. The bands are inscribed with Latin mottoes, adding another subtle touch of history.  

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✤ Honourable mention goes to fellow LCF graduate Qian Yang of YQY Jewellery, who has seemingly moved onto rather different designs now, but whose graduate collection was so, so good (if a little unwearable). The 'Ceramic Repair' collection features pieces inspired by the Japanese practice of kintsugi, whereby ceramics are repaired using gold, leaving golden traces of breakage and repair as evidence of an objects history. Who doesn't want massive porcelain dolls enhanced with gold on their fingers? 

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