Monday, 14 October 2013
Haider Ackermann is very much a designer who 'owns' their look, who doesn't follow the fickle trends of fashion. The collections vary, but retain a core aesthetic instantly recognizable as Ackermann. His latest collection was once again a glorious show of tailoring, jewel tones, metallics, silks, draping, fringing and a certain nonchalant masculinity. New for Spring 2014 was a looser, free-flowing ease, with swathes of sheer black tulle in tops and skirts, worn over trousers, under silk shirts...just about everywhere. Jackets took on a slightly longer, boxier line than seasons past, with a hint of the 50's Teddy Boy.
Despite being a Spring collection, the signature use of layering and deep jewel tones work nicely at this time of year, going into winter. I hate to reduce a talented designer down to a checklist of components, but when thinking about 'How to Haider' certain key elements naturally emerged. I enjoyed styling a few looks around the checklist, starting off with the good intention of just using the highstreet and reasonably priced items (ASOS has a great range of jacquard and metallic trousers, the perfect starting point in any Ackermann outfit). But this is the internet; if I can't fantasy style here then where can I?!
So......How to Haider (without actually wearing Haider)...
Ackermann is a colour master; mix emerald green with copper tones, add a mannish overcoat and brogues, plus a hint of feminine tulle to balance the look. Don't forget the requisite tasseled scarf!
Head to toe shine can work in different tones. Lace up shoes and a tailored overcoat work for day; add heels and a contrasting necklace for evening.
Wear a sheer blouse open over a silk cami, keeping warm with an oversized coat and a classic Ackerman jacqard/brocade/silk scarf. Metallic skinny fit trousers and pointed lace-ups complete the androgynous look.
Wear tone on tone, just keep the textures different... coated metallic denim, silk, jacquard, tulle. Metallic purple brogues may be a step too far but they were too awesome to leave out.
Midnight blue and gold jazz up tuxedo dressing. Add a silk print slipper shoe as an alternative to the lace-up brogue. Add a tasseled evening scarf and draped tulle tee for extra movement and to keep a formal look from feeling too stuffy.